The nights are getting colder. Your body, feeling the darkness before it, thirsts for warmth, comfort, fat. It’s finally pozole season.
But for Javier Garcia, it’s never pozole season. He grew up in Guadalajara, eating bowls of thick, sticky, hominy soup and pork stew (clam?) For every event, birthday, and celebration. His mother’s pozole ruined him for any pozole he ever ordered at a Chicago restaurant. âI was very spoiled,â he says.
Garcia is half of the pozole pop-up LimÃ³n y Sal, which arose last January when he and his wife, pastry chef Galit Mary Eder-McClure, discovered a pozole delivery service in Jalisco as a way to make ends meet. The previous spring, when the pandemic hit, Garcia was fired from his job as a waiter at Topolobampo (where the couple met five years earlier). Although the money is extremely limited, they still tried to support farmer friends who had also been knocked down by COVID. They bought their weekly meat from Trent Sparrow from Catalpa Grove Farm in the north of the state of Dwight, which raises Berkshire goats, lambs and pigs. One day the farmer came with a delivery and threw away a pig’s head for free.
âHonestly, I was like ew, disgusting,â Eder-McClure wrote in an Instagram post. âBut then I called Javi and asked him if he wanted it and of course he said yes. He actually said ‘Yeah !!! We can make a really good pozole!’â
It’s those fatty, collagen-rich parts, like the head and feet, that give a proper pozole its full-bodied, full-bodied richness, and Sparrow continued to provide the couple with free pork heads to support their growing menus. popular. Along with the classic red bowls of guajillo and pasilla brick broth, they’ve extended to pozole verde de pollo, and even a vegan version with mushrooms and chayote, with each kit coming with the essential texture toppings. : diced onion, sliced ââradish, grated cabbage, lime, crunchy tostadas.
When restaurants came back online and head cheeses, pÃ¢tÃ©s and other cold meats started making a comeback on restaurant menus, LimÃ³n y Sal started building their pork broth with pig’s trotters instead. . They clean and then cook these feet overnight with onions, garlic, cilantro, bay leaves and black pepper, then strain the broth and build the soup with pieces of pork shoulder and hominy. .
âThe flavor of Trent’s pork is on another level,â says Eder-McClure. âIt’s really well marbled. Our pozole is a little different from the traditional one: we prepare all the broth separately, then we cook the meat in the broth so that it is even more porky.
Over the summer, LimÃ³n y Sal grew into one of the city’s most prolific and popular pop-up chefs, making appearances throughout the city and gradually expanding their offerings; ceviche, tortas ahogadas, elote sundaes, barbacoa sopes. âIt’s always centered around the flavor of Jalisco and the culinary memories of Javi,â says Eder-McClure. âWe could use watermelon radish, which isn’t traditional, but adds a bit of flair. We use a lot of Midwestern products.
Incredibly, although the couple maintained a steady delivery schedule for pozole, they never served it to order in any live pop-ups. All that changes this Monday, October 25, when they inaugurate the pozole season at Monday Night Foodball. Yes, it’s the ninth week of Reader chef pop-up series at Kedzie Inn, 4100 N. Kedzie (see updated schedule below).
Garcia and Eder-McClure offer their signature pozole rojo de puerco, in addition to a full Jaliciense menu, including the gorgeous chicharrÃ³n preparado pictured above; an aguachile verde shrimp âcookedâ on the spot in a tangy lime and tomatillo broth; Chicken tinga stuffed marinated jalapeÃ±os with black bean salsa and a creme brulee known as jericalla. âIt’s kind of like custard, but burnt on top like a Portuguese egg tart,â says Eder-McClure. “It’s sold all over the street in Guadalajara, but it’s not very common here.”
Garcia and Eder-McClure are negotiating to open a permanent location in a dining room to be named later, so it won’t be long before you can order pozole and other goodies like these every time. as you need it. But this Monday will be your first chance. Pre-orders will go online on Wednesday at 8 p.m., October 20, or bide your time, come in and order a refreshing cantarito from Jon Pokorny at the bar while you wait for this warm and nourishing bowl of pig love. Meet at 5 p.m.
Monday Night Foodball remains:
11/1: Bites from the Grand Est with Chris Reed from Bumbu Roux
11/15: Thai cuisine by Palita Sriratana from Pink Salt
22/11: Barbecue life coach Gary Wiviott
29/11: Thanksgiving / Hannukah break
12/6: to be determined